Omiclops
06-14-2007, 03:47 PM
How To Solder
Part 1: Assembling The Components
http://mikeman.drakworks.com/solder/pic1_small.jpg
Seen here, all the parts:
1x Fender Roc Pro 1000 100w Guitar Amp
1x 30w Radio Shack Soldering Iron
3x standard 60/40 electrical solder
1x leatherman
3x hobby sandpaper
The soldering iron I have is a 30w generic iron from Radio Shack, which cost me about $14, I think.
Standard electric solder is 60/40 (60% tin, 40% lead), and contains resin flux built in (so you don't need to add any).
A special note about solder:: Acid core solder is not recommended for use with electronics, due to the corrosive nature of the core. Acid core solder is for non-electrical applications such as galvanized gutters, sheet metal, and radiator repair.
Please remember soldering irons generally heat to about 370° CELSIUS, so
avoid touching the tip.
Go ahead and plug in your soldering iron at this point, that way it'll be all warmed up for you when
you've got everything apart. Oh, make sure your other tools (screwdrivers, torx, etc) are ready first.
Part 2: Open 'er up
http://mikeman.drakworks.com/solder/pic2_small.jpg
Alright, so we've got the PCB out. As you may be able to tell from the top picture's larger version,
all wires that are unplugged from the PCB have been labelled with masking tape and a sharpie.
This is to prevent later confusion.
http://mikeman.drakworks.com/solder/pic4_small.jpg
This is a closeup of the primary area I will be focusing on for this short tutorial, see the five yellow wires.
I've actually already completed this mod once, but I was in a hurry during the soldering of this (and one other)
non-critical switch. As I was putting it back together, one of the solder joints came loose. My aim now, is to fix it for good.
Part 3: Prep for launch!
http://mikeman.drakworks.com/solder/pic5_small.jpg
Everything's out of the way, and ready to go. I'll flip the PCB over now:
This is primarily where your soldering is going to take place, unless you're soldering wires to IC (Integrated Circuit, aka 'chips') contacts.
Seen here, the 6 smaller solder joints are where my soldering has taken place.
If you've used your soldering iron a bunch, as I have, you may have a buildup of carbon (black crap) on your soldering tool.
If you're like me, and you don't realize this until after the tool's on, you can use a sharp knife to scrape it off. You only need to clean the very tip. Be careful though, it's still hot. Also, now that it's hot, a sharp knife can easily take nicks out of the tip, so do it away from your soldering target. If you notice before turning it on, you can use sandpaper.
Don't try to sandpaper while the iron is on, you'll burn yourself (and probably kill some perfectly good sandpaper on top of that)!
Part 4: Method to the Madness
Now, there are two methods to this. The method I tend to use, involves transporting the solder to the PCB via the tip of the iron:
That is, I put the solder on the iron first, then apply it to the solder joint from there. If you're not quick, this can burn
the flux out of the solder, potentially causing a "dry joint,"
http://mikeman.drakworks.com/solder/Solder3.gif
Or, a "cold joint."
The other method, which is probably better (though it can be tough, especially if your PCB is not firmly planted), works like this:
http://mikeman.drakworks.com/solder/Solder1.gif
Basically, you'll trim the leads (the wire ends), stick them through the pin hole, and bend the tip to a 45° angle, to hold it in place. With that, you'll stick the solder under the bend, while applying the heat on the opposite side. This will more than likely
give you a clean, shiny solder! Bear in mind, doing things this way can necessitate a heat sink, so as not to damage the electrical components.
After that, apply solder to the other sides:
It should basically look like this, all the way around. If you have the room, this is the best way to do things, as it gives you
the smallest chance of a malformed solder joint. If you don't have that luxury (which is common with modding), you'll have the least frustration
using my method:
[img]http://mikeman.drakworks.com/solder/pic8_small.jpg
Dab a little solder onto the tip of your iron. If you thought you put some on, but it seems to have just disappeared, check the
other side of your iron. "Wet" solder has a tendency to flow a bit. Once you flip the iron over, applying a little more solder should
be cake; it won't move. (probably)
If you're wondering what this crazy solder contraption is all about, it was solder that came in a kit. The holder is supposed to make
things more convenient than buying a spool. Aside from that, there's really no difference at all. It doesn't help as much as you'd think.
http://mikeman.drakworks.com/solder/pic9_small.jpg
Seen here, the solder is on the tip. Sorry, the picture isn't that great, but you can kinda tell.
http://mikeman.drakworks.com/solder/pic10_small.jpg
Quickly get the solder onto the contact. An action shot was tough to take left handed (I didn't have any help with the pictures),
so I took one just before I applied it. For the actual application, I have one hand holding the wire as it pokes through the middle pin hole, and the other driving the iron. Basically, you can tell you've done a good job if the solder joint looks like an amorphous glob of chrome: If the solder itself is very dull looking, you probably spent too much time burning it, the flux is gone. This will give you a much higher chance of having a dry or cold joint.
Clean it off and try again, or add more solder if you have room.
Part 5: The Cleanup
http://mikeman.drakworks.com/solder/pic11_small.jpg
Alright, so you've got your soldering done. But you noticed that it's gotten a bit messy! Or, two of your solder joints are making contact, but they're not supposed to. Ahah, so this is what your leatherman (or comparable sharp blade) and sandpaper are for! If your solder points are touching, get them apart with your solder iron (if possible). A solder wick can make this easier. If it's not possible, you can separate the points with your knife. I have also used it to scrape excess solder off of the PCB. This comes in especially handy if you accidentally soldered onto one of the tracks. Wouldn't want your shiny new [insert electronic being modded] to be fried
because you were careless, would you?
After you've cleaned up with the knife, if you feel it's necessary, you can go over it once with your fine grit sandpaper.
Be careful on the PCB, if you're not, you could scratch the solder resistant coating off of the PCB (making it more
vulnerable later on).
Well, that's all I can think of. Good luck with your soldering efforts. This is really my first guide, so if there's anything
I've missed, or any further questions, go ahead and ask away, and I'll update the guide as necessary. Happy modding!
-- Omiclops
Part 1: Assembling The Components
http://mikeman.drakworks.com/solder/pic1_small.jpg
Seen here, all the parts:
1x Fender Roc Pro 1000 100w Guitar Amp
1x 30w Radio Shack Soldering Iron
3x standard 60/40 electrical solder
1x leatherman
3x hobby sandpaper
The soldering iron I have is a 30w generic iron from Radio Shack, which cost me about $14, I think.
Standard electric solder is 60/40 (60% tin, 40% lead), and contains resin flux built in (so you don't need to add any).
A special note about solder:: Acid core solder is not recommended for use with electronics, due to the corrosive nature of the core. Acid core solder is for non-electrical applications such as galvanized gutters, sheet metal, and radiator repair.
Please remember soldering irons generally heat to about 370° CELSIUS, so
avoid touching the tip.
Go ahead and plug in your soldering iron at this point, that way it'll be all warmed up for you when
you've got everything apart. Oh, make sure your other tools (screwdrivers, torx, etc) are ready first.
Part 2: Open 'er up
http://mikeman.drakworks.com/solder/pic2_small.jpg
Alright, so we've got the PCB out. As you may be able to tell from the top picture's larger version,
all wires that are unplugged from the PCB have been labelled with masking tape and a sharpie.
This is to prevent later confusion.
http://mikeman.drakworks.com/solder/pic4_small.jpg
This is a closeup of the primary area I will be focusing on for this short tutorial, see the five yellow wires.
I've actually already completed this mod once, but I was in a hurry during the soldering of this (and one other)
non-critical switch. As I was putting it back together, one of the solder joints came loose. My aim now, is to fix it for good.
Part 3: Prep for launch!
http://mikeman.drakworks.com/solder/pic5_small.jpg
Everything's out of the way, and ready to go. I'll flip the PCB over now:
This is primarily where your soldering is going to take place, unless you're soldering wires to IC (Integrated Circuit, aka 'chips') contacts.
Seen here, the 6 smaller solder joints are where my soldering has taken place.
If you've used your soldering iron a bunch, as I have, you may have a buildup of carbon (black crap) on your soldering tool.
If you're like me, and you don't realize this until after the tool's on, you can use a sharp knife to scrape it off. You only need to clean the very tip. Be careful though, it's still hot. Also, now that it's hot, a sharp knife can easily take nicks out of the tip, so do it away from your soldering target. If you notice before turning it on, you can use sandpaper.
Don't try to sandpaper while the iron is on, you'll burn yourself (and probably kill some perfectly good sandpaper on top of that)!
Part 4: Method to the Madness
Now, there are two methods to this. The method I tend to use, involves transporting the solder to the PCB via the tip of the iron:
That is, I put the solder on the iron first, then apply it to the solder joint from there. If you're not quick, this can burn
the flux out of the solder, potentially causing a "dry joint,"
http://mikeman.drakworks.com/solder/Solder3.gif
Or, a "cold joint."
The other method, which is probably better (though it can be tough, especially if your PCB is not firmly planted), works like this:
http://mikeman.drakworks.com/solder/Solder1.gif
Basically, you'll trim the leads (the wire ends), stick them through the pin hole, and bend the tip to a 45° angle, to hold it in place. With that, you'll stick the solder under the bend, while applying the heat on the opposite side. This will more than likely
give you a clean, shiny solder! Bear in mind, doing things this way can necessitate a heat sink, so as not to damage the electrical components.
After that, apply solder to the other sides:
It should basically look like this, all the way around. If you have the room, this is the best way to do things, as it gives you
the smallest chance of a malformed solder joint. If you don't have that luxury (which is common with modding), you'll have the least frustration
using my method:
[img]http://mikeman.drakworks.com/solder/pic8_small.jpg
Dab a little solder onto the tip of your iron. If you thought you put some on, but it seems to have just disappeared, check the
other side of your iron. "Wet" solder has a tendency to flow a bit. Once you flip the iron over, applying a little more solder should
be cake; it won't move. (probably)
If you're wondering what this crazy solder contraption is all about, it was solder that came in a kit. The holder is supposed to make
things more convenient than buying a spool. Aside from that, there's really no difference at all. It doesn't help as much as you'd think.
http://mikeman.drakworks.com/solder/pic9_small.jpg
Seen here, the solder is on the tip. Sorry, the picture isn't that great, but you can kinda tell.
http://mikeman.drakworks.com/solder/pic10_small.jpg
Quickly get the solder onto the contact. An action shot was tough to take left handed (I didn't have any help with the pictures),
so I took one just before I applied it. For the actual application, I have one hand holding the wire as it pokes through the middle pin hole, and the other driving the iron. Basically, you can tell you've done a good job if the solder joint looks like an amorphous glob of chrome: If the solder itself is very dull looking, you probably spent too much time burning it, the flux is gone. This will give you a much higher chance of having a dry or cold joint.
Clean it off and try again, or add more solder if you have room.
Part 5: The Cleanup
http://mikeman.drakworks.com/solder/pic11_small.jpg
Alright, so you've got your soldering done. But you noticed that it's gotten a bit messy! Or, two of your solder joints are making contact, but they're not supposed to. Ahah, so this is what your leatherman (or comparable sharp blade) and sandpaper are for! If your solder points are touching, get them apart with your solder iron (if possible). A solder wick can make this easier. If it's not possible, you can separate the points with your knife. I have also used it to scrape excess solder off of the PCB. This comes in especially handy if you accidentally soldered onto one of the tracks. Wouldn't want your shiny new [insert electronic being modded] to be fried
because you were careless, would you?
After you've cleaned up with the knife, if you feel it's necessary, you can go over it once with your fine grit sandpaper.
Be careful on the PCB, if you're not, you could scratch the solder resistant coating off of the PCB (making it more
vulnerable later on).
Well, that's all I can think of. Good luck with your soldering efforts. This is really my first guide, so if there's anything
I've missed, or any further questions, go ahead and ask away, and I'll update the guide as necessary. Happy modding!
-- Omiclops